The Single-Action Trigger
Found in a lot of the cheaper air rifles, it’s a pain in the butt because there is no first pressure, often no trigger pressure adjustment. Just a sometimes long (gritty) squeeze to release the piston (spring powered or air ram) or to allow the striker to hit a gas valve.
Two stage triggers.
When you squeeze the trigger, it will move backwards until it hits a ‘wall’. From then on you are building pressure until it breaks, releasing the firing pin, which fires the cartridge in a firearm, or releases the striker for a CO2 powered or PCP rifle, or the piston for a spring (or gas ram) powered air rifle.
Some manufacturers allow you to vary the first and second stage in both travel and pressure. Plus what happens to the trigger AFTER you achieve release.
That little gem is known as over-travel.
(By in far the best air rifle trigger group I have found is the Rekord trigger found in Weihrauch weapons. Time proven, and reliable as hell.
It allows adjustment of:-
1st stage travel,1st and 2nd stage pressure, and 2nd stage movement.(over-travel)
A few magazine articles talk of polishing the surfaces of the sears and bearing points. I have never done that but know others who tried resulting in them buying complete replacement assemblies. Apart from keeping things clean, why challenge perfection?
Lastly, for information only, are Electronic (solenoid) triggers.
(Daystate, Walther. as two examples)
They are usually found in PCP rifles which, as said, are not the ideal weapons for survivalists.
Personally I have absolutely no interest in them and it smacks of ‘smart gun’ / ‘smart lock’ engineering. I have ZERO faith in anything electronic that, if it fails, all you have left is a VERY expensive club. While most mechanical triggers can be repaired on a work bench, are time proven, and overwhelmingly reliable.
On a two stage trigger it’s not the initial take up to the wall, Creep occurs when you are squeezing the trigger till it breaks / releases the sear.
Ideally you should feel nothing and achieve an instant break when you exceed the release pressure. However. nothing in life is perfect and there will be a bit of trigger travel (sometimes feeling like you have grit in the mechanism) till it releases the sear.
You’ve taken up the first pressure, struggled through second pressures ‘grittiness’, and as the shot is released, the trigger keeps on moving back, without much pressure, until it hits the back of it’s travel with a thump.
Which, unfortunately for you, gives the rifle yet another nudge that can take it off target before the cartridge / whatever has managed to get bullet moving down the barrel (aka Lock-time). However, with a decent trigger group, it can be made adjustable.
Finger placement on a trigger.
I’m not going to explain the different placements for handguns, shotguns, and rifles.
I shoot rifle. Bolt, lever, or semi-auto, and this was what I was taught in the military.
The trigger hand does NOT grip the stock, it is simple wrapped around it.
The only bit that moves is the end of the finger. Do not apply side pressure to the trigger or change where you are touching the trigger. Get it wrong and the fault ‘wheels’ below will help you to work out what went wrong and why.
Shot deflections into the angles covered by the arrows are likely to be caused by faults of the rifleman.
A) – Resting the fore-end towards the top of the palm or canting the rifle to the right.
B) – Pressing the rifle over to the right to hold the sights on or canting the rifle to the left.
C) – Trigger pulling-which could include pulling back steadily with the hand.
D) – Forcing the shoulder on to the butt.
E) – Pressing the rifle over to the left to hold the sights on.
F) – Lifting the fore-end into the aiming-mark.
G) – Forcing the sights down.